My Short Break in Portmeirion
I recently enjoyed a three-night break in the lovely Welsh village/resort of Portmeirion. This is about two miles from Porthmadog in NW Wales. It was the first time I had stayed in Portmeirion, though I have visited many times before. Here’s a map from Google Maps.
Portmeirion is a beautiful Italianate village created by the architect Clough Williams Ellis. These days it’s probably best known as the location for the 1960s cult TV series The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan.
Portmeirion is privately owned and you have to pay a fee to enter during the day. Of course, if you are staying there, as I was, this is included in the price you pay.
- You can also get free admission (in the afternoon) by booking a minimum two-course lunch at Castell Deudraeth; this is part of the Portmeirion estate, a short walk from the village itself. Free admission to the village is also available if you book a spa treatment or afternoon cream tea there.
Accommodation
There are various accommodation options in Portmeirion. You can stay in the main hotel in the village or at Castell Deudraeth. You can also stay in one of the many self-contained cottages and apartments in the village itself. I did the latter, staying in one called The Neptune Suite. This is in the heart of the village, directly over the ice cream parlour. Here’s a photo…
I was quite surprised how spacious The Neptune Suite was. The front door opened into a good-sized lounge with comfortable chairs and sofas and (of course) a TV. There was also a sink in the corner with an electric kettle, coffee and teabags, mugs and glasses, and so forth. There were no cooking facilities but there was a small fridge with complimentary bottled water and a bottle of champagne (definitely not complimentary). The fridge came in very useful for storing milk and snacks for the evening (see below).
Next to the lounge was a double bedroom, with a large bathroom off it. The latter had a separate bath and shower, which felt quite a luxury. A good selection of freebies such as bath/shower gel, shampoo and conditioner, soap, shower caps and even miniature shoeshines were provided.
I stayed on a bed-and-breakfast basis. Breakfast was provided in the hotel, which was about five minutes’ walk away. The hotel breakfasts were excellent, with a self-service buffet and a choice of cooked breakfasts, which were brought to you. During the day I ate at one of the cafes and restaurants in the village (I particularly recommend the Italian-themed Caffi Glas).
There are fewer options for eating in Portmeirion in the evening. Basically you can book a table at the hotel or Castell Deudraeth. These both have highly rated restaurants, with prices to match! They would be good if you were celebrating a special occasion, but a bit pricey to eat at every day. Personally, after a big hotel breakfast and lunch in the village (or out exploring) all I wanted in the evening was a light meal anyway. So I brought my own bread and cheese, fruit, biscuits and so on. Along with a cold drink or a pot of tea, that was fine for me! But otherwise you could always take a short drive into Porthmadog, which has plenty of shops and eateries.
The apartment had free wifi which worked perfectly during my stay (not always the case in my experience). The location was quiet and peaceful (there was a low-key buzz from the ice cream parlour during the day but that closed at 4 pm) and I slept very well during my stay.
Financials
As Pounds and Sense is primarily a money blog, I should say a word about this.
Portmeirion is a bit more expensive than most places I visit on short breaks. For my three-night stay with breakfast, I paid £640, which works out at around £213 per day. I thought that was actually quite reasonable bearing in mind the standard of the accommodation and the other amenities on offer. I got a 10% ‘Genius Discount’ from Booking.com, which may have reduced the cost a bit.
I did notice as well that prices vary somewhat from week to week, I assume due to supply and demand. A bit of trial and error here may pay dividends!
One other thing I should say is that I opted for a ‘Village Double Room’ and didn’t know exactly what accommodation I would get. I guess that’s like staying in a hotel, when you aren’t normally told your room number beforehand. If you have a particular preference you can always try asking, but there’s no guarantee you will receive it. I did email a few days before to ask where I would be staying and discovered then that it would be The Neptune Suite.
Things to Do
There are various things you can do in or around Portmeirion. On my first full day I stayed in the village itself. I enjoyed walking the coastal path from the village and back through the woodlands behind. I also spent some time enjoying the heated outdoor pool. This is available to residents only (not day visitors). I was lucky with the weather and made the most of this facility. The changing rooms are pretty basic, but as my accommodation was just a couple of minutes’ walk away that really wasn’t an issue for me.
On my other full day I took a five-minute drive to Porthmadog and enjoyed a trip on the Ffestiniog Railway.
This heritage steam railway has two separate lines, both of which run from Porthmadog. The Welsh Highland Railway takes you on a scenic two-and-a-quarter hour trip through the heart of Snowdonia to Caernarfon, while the original Ffestiniog Railway takes you on a one-hour trip to Blaenau Ffestiniog. On this occasion I took the shorter journey, but I have done the Welsh Highland Railway trip before and recommend it as well. You can get more info on both (and book in advance) via the Ffestiniog Railway website.
The harbour station in Porthmadog has a small car park for people with disabilities only, but there is a free car park for people travelling on the railway at the back of the public car park opposite (Llyn Bach). I used that myself on this occasion. There were plenty of spaces when I arrived at around 9.30 a.m. but I noticed it was full later. So my top tip if going by car is to book a ticket on a morning train rather than leaving it until the afternoon!
Final Thoughts
As you may gather, I enjoyed my short break in Portmeirion and am happy to recommend it for a relaxing short break (though not an especially cheap one!).
Portmeirion is a great place to kick back and chill out. It has good road and rail connections, and there are also other high-quality tourist attractions nearby, including the Ffestiniog Railway, Harlech and Criccieth Castles, and so on.
Portmeirion itself isn’t somewhere to go if you want to be ‘entertained’. The gardens and buildings are beautiful and highly photogenic, and there are some lovely little shops and cafes. You can also enjoy scenic walks alongside the estuary and through the woodlands. And, as mentioned above, there is an outdoor pool you can use (or sunbathe beside, weather permitting!).
To be honest, Portmeirion isn’t going to suit everyone. If you want a holiday with lots of activities and entertainment laid on, it won’t fit the bill. And children and teenagers (especially) might find it a bit limited. For older people and couples looking to relax and recharge their batteries, though, it might be just the thing. There are also some special events (e.g. The Prisoner Weekend) held there throughout the year.
One other point to note is that dogs (apart from guide dogs) are not allowed anywhere in the village. So if you normally take a canine companion on holiday with you, Portmeirion may not be the place for you.
As always, if you have any comments or questions about this post, please do leave them below.
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